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Clearing your skin of unwanted, excess hair is as simple as whipping out your razor or making a trip to the beauty salon, right? Not so fast! For women of color with curly hair on the face, neck, underarms, or legs, hair removal carries the risk of ingrown hairs, which irritate and inflame the skin. This condition, known as pseudfolliculitisbarbae (PFB), is more common in Black men (see chapter 15), but aflicts women as well. Affected skin can become bumpy and discolored. In addition, if you don't remove hair carefully, you can develop small nicks or cuts, which can also lead to hyperpigmentation and even keloids. Black women who are prone to hyperpigmentation should be especially cautious about removing unwanted hair. Those with keloidal scars should consult a dermatologist about how to clear the skin of hair safely.
Hair Removal Methods
The hair removal method you choose will depend on many factors, including the amount of hair, its texture and location, and your preference for regrowth time. Common methods include:
Plucking
A mildly painful method most commonly applied to the eyebrow area and upper lip. Too much plucking can lead to thinned eyebrows, so be sure to only remove stray hairs. Plucking hair in the chin area or on the neck can lead to worsening of pseudefolliculitis barbae ( razor bumps) and it is not a recommended method of hair removal in these areas. As the hair is plucked, it breaks below the surface of the skin and pierces the hair follicle, causing damage and inflammation beneath the surface of the skin.
Shaving
A quick method typically applied to the legs and underarms. Because it cuts hair at the skin surface, this method is most likely to result in irritated skin and ingrown hairs. If you choose to shave, always use a fresh razor on clean skin moistened with water and soap, or a shaving cream or gel. Shave gently in the direction of hair growth to avoid ingrown hairs. Never shave your face.
Cutting
The best method for those occasional hairs ~hat grow on your nipples, chin, or trom a mole. Cut the hair with a mustache scissors or a small pair of scissors. This is preferable to plucking hairs in these delicate areas.
Depilatory (hair removal creams)
This method is best for small areas that are not too easily irritated, such as the upper lip, chin, and bikini area. Depilatories, however, contain chemicals that may be harsh on the skin and this often leads to irritation of the skin and redness. Use the product as directed and be sure to test it first. If irritation develops at any time, discontinue use.
Waxing
This method stings but it's quick and keeps you hair-free for weeks at a time. Wax is usually applied in a salon to the upper lip, underarm, bikini line, or legs. At-home kits can be messy and not as effective. Whether in the salon or at home, be careful not to burn the skin with the hot wax.
Sugaring
Also done in salons, this method uses a sugar and lemon mixture to remove hair £rom the roots. Though less painful than waxing, it may cause irritation.
Electrolysis
This method involves the use of an electric current to destroy hair follicles. A needle is inserted into the hair follicle and a current destroys the hair and fbllicle. It takes time-often repeat visits over months or years-and is more expensive than most methods. Although electrolysis has the advantage of giving long-term results, it causes redness initially and can scar the skin.
Laser Hair Removal
Laser hair removal targets the hair follicle with a beam of light that heats and destroys the hair. Since a large area can be done, it requires far fewer visits than electrolysis. Results are long-term, although it is possible for some hair to regrow. However, this method can remove pigment from skin of color or cause dark areas on the skin. It is also critically important that the hair removal laser be performed by a dermatologist knowledgeable about skin of color. The Long Pulse Diode and Alexandrite Lasers are preferable for skin of color because they have a less harmful effect on the skin. Note: Because lasers can cause severe damage to skin if applied by unskilled hands, be sure to only get treatment from a board-certified dermatologist or health-care professional.
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